Help Your Reactive or Fearful Dog in Two Simple Steps
Many of us have been there: you’re walking your 9 month old dog who, up to this point, has been sweet and friendly to every dog and person he’s encountered. Suddenly, he sees another dog across the street when he stops and is staring at the other dog. You call his name and he doesn’t even flinch. The next thing you know he’s barking and lunging toward the dog across the street and you almost go flying as he tries to pull toward the other dog. You might think it’s a one-off incident at first, but when it starts happening more and more frequently, you start to feel nervous and overwhelmed just at the thought of getting the leash out.
Trainers call this reactivity. When a dog barks, lunges, stares at, whines, pulls toward or is otherwise “stuck” on another dog or person, we refer to it as reactivity. The thing that they react to is referred to as a trigger.
When dogs have these big reactions, it’s typically coming from one of two places. First, it could be fear that the other dog will get too close. Think along the lines of “bark bark bark! Back off, or else! Don’t come any closer or I’ll bite! I swear I will!” Or, it could be frustration that they can’t get closer to the trigger. Think, “bark bark I hate this stupid leash! Why can’t I just go say hi! Say hi to me! Hello! Excuse me, why are you ignoring me?! Damn this leash!!” And sometimes, it's a combination of the two! Regardless of why your dog is reactive, it’s uncomfortable for everyone involved. Even if your dog “just wants to say hi” or is “fine off leash” the things they experience on leash are not fun for you, your dog or the person or dog being barked at.
It’s important to remember that this is a reaction not a choice your dog is making. Your dog is having an emotional response to something and does not know what else to do. Your job (with the help of a qualified trainer) is to teach your dog two things. 1) to feel differently about the trigger and 2) what else to do. Easier said than done. Here are the first things every reactive dog owner can do right now to make your walks more manageable.
PREVENT THE BIG EXPLOSIONS
The first step to working on the problem is to prevent it as much as possible. This is one of the hardest parts for many dog owners (click here to see our article on what activities you can do other than walking). You’re likely going to have to change what your walks look like. For some that will look like crossing the street when you see a trigger, using driveways or parked cars to hide in and turning around to walk the other way. Sometimes that includes walking less or not at all (if you have a yard for potty breaks), walking at different times of day, or in different neighborhoods.
“But if we just avoid things, how will my dog ever learn to relax around their triggers?”
When your dog is barking, lunging, and pulling toward a trigger, they aren’t really capable of making good choices. Or making choices at all for that matter. When your dog is in this mode, it’s already too late to start trying to get them to make a different choice. Trying to shove treats into your dog’s mouth while they’re barking isn’t going to help much and it could result in an accidental bite. Mid-reaction is not the time to train your dog. The time to train is when there is a trigger present, but at a distance that your dog can still perform simple behaviors like “sit” and will take food gently.
PAIR THE TRIGGER WITH FOOD
One of the easiest, fastest and most effective ways to change a dog’s mind about something is through the use of food. Food is a powerful training tool. It doesn’t just distract your dog, it can literally send happy hormones (dopamine) into their brains that help them feel better about the situation at hand.
The moment your dog sees a trigger, start feeding your dog treats, one at a time, every 2-4 seconds. Either from your hand or toss the treat on the ground. Stay at a distance that your dog can watch the trigger without “exploding” into a big reaction. Once the trigger passes, stop feeding and keep walking. The goal is to feed and walk at the same time, but that’s not always possible, especially at first.
What if my dog doesn’t like treats? Bust out the good stuff! Lots of people try hot dogs and string cheese first. If that doesn’t cut it, you can go to Vienna Sausages, frozen jars of turkey baby food (usually good for sensitive tummies!), or a stinkier cheese like cheddar or Munster. If you’re worried about extra calories, cut back on their regular meals for now.
What if my dog stops taking food mid-treating? This is usually a sign that something about the trigger is too intense! Maybe the trigger is too close now or maybe there’s a second trigger in the environment suddenly (like a dog barking behind a fence). Try creating more space between your dog and the trigger if possible, then continue treating. If you can’t regain your dog’s focus, get your dog away from the trigger and try again next time.
What if my dog won’t take food at all outside or once they see a trigger? Your dog is probably too nervous or excited if they can’t take really yummy treats. It’s best to talk to a certified trainer about how to help your dog outside your home.
What if I start doing this, but my dog still reacts? Your dog is going to have big reactions still. It’s going to happen. You will miss triggers. You will get too close. You and your dog will both have bad days. When your dog has a big reaction, do your best to shake it off and try for a better one next time.
These are not the only steps you can take, there are dozens of books written on this, so don’t worry if this 1,000 word article hasn’t solved your issues. Be patient with yourself and your dog. Working with a certified, positive reinforcement trainer and finding other reactive dog parents can be helpful. You can still have a happy and fulfilling connection with your dog even if your walks have to change for a few months.